February 16, 2014 at 8:58 am #575150
The detector/exchange to hinge on the fan is at the bottom of the radiator… If the detector goes spoiled or gets disconnected, information technology defaults to functional the fan full clip..
Hinderance to ensure this sensor is blocked in and the wires are good. If you jump the wires to the sensor and the fan doesn't run, chances are you accept a terrible sensor…
Here is a link about a similar issue, only he did non have the sensor installed after mortal transformed the radiator and he kept burning leading his fans…
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/assembly/8-Service-and-Reparation-Questions-Answered-Here/48552-2001-camry-fans-constantly-on#82314
February 16, 2014 at 9:20 am #575154
Anyway I can check to see if the fan electric switch is unfavorable?
February 16, 2014 at 9:21 am #575156
Construe my first post, I ninja altered whatever stuff at the terminate… essentially you unplug and then jump the two wire connection (paperclip) to the switch and if the fan is not running when you start the car (particularly if your engine is at or in a higher place operating temperature) then the sensor is hopeless… check come out the link to a fault, I included roughly pics…
Feb 16, 2014 at 9:40 am #575157
I've tried that and the fans are still non turning off. Could it follow the fan control faculty? Likewise where is the fan control module? I've tried looking for for IT, but couldn't find IT. Does it even subsist on the 4 cylinder models?
February 16, 2014 at 9:54 am #575159
I dont believe the 2.2 had them… I think they are for v6 models of 92-94 which had a liquid fan..
Try to check your relay… it may embody sticking… try swapping it out (Toyota much uses several of the same relay race) or hold it and have individual start the car and feel for the sink in… or pull it and test with multimeter, or if you can, hit the cap and observe..
Worst case you will give birth to ascertain the wires to the sensor for persistence. . Any break can cause this issue…
February 16, 2014 at 10:15 am #575163
I do know that pull the main the main engine relay cause them to stop, simply I've tried to swapping it for the A/C electrical relay behind the passenger kick panel, only the job calm remains. Bad meld box operating theatre lighting switch?
February 16, 2014 at 10:28 am #575165
What happens to the fan when you just disconnect the hype to the sensor at the buns of the radiator without a pinny wire? Does this stop the fan now?
Also, the fan electrical relay should be right next to the main relay you have been pulling.
-Karl
February 16, 2014 at 12:54 pm #575177
When I disconnection the green fan 1 electrical relay, the left fan stops. When I unplug the fan 2 relay the right sports fan stops. Could it besides be something in the ECM that's amiss?
February 16, 2014 at 7:07 pm #575191
OK… It could constitute something in the ECU, merely that is the last check… Check the wires going to the exchange/sensor… They penury to be traced plump for to where they are sourced or possibly grounded. If there is a break or kink in one of them, the default is to run…
Did you switch round the relays and confirm one ISN't protrusive operating theatre anything?
As wel, a skim tool should personify able to tell you if the ECU is running fine… Also you can check what the coolant reading is (ECT)…. That should not cause this to turn along, but should be checked.
Was anything done to this automobile, Beaver State anything unusual happen before the fan started running continuously?
-Karl
February 17, 2014 at 3:31 pm #575338
I believe the fan detector at the bottom of the radiator is good and the relays as wel appear to be good enough as advantageously. So I'm thinking it's either a bad ground or the other coolant sensor has a trouble. I'm also speculative if could equal something in the ignition switch sending power somewhere it shouldn't?
February 20, 2014 at 7:08 am #575839
Well I really Don't know what's going, I've checked the ETC turn on the bottom of the radiator and is effective, I've check the relay race and they are likewise working as they're should. The only clue I've got is electric potential in what appears to be the ground side of the coil part of the relay circuit (for lack of a better term), I have checked for invalid wiring and can't look to find any. 🙁
Edit: Problem solved, in that respect was a problem in the a/c coerce switch that caused the temperature reduction fans to be stuck on piping, I have since bypassed that part of the switch and fixed the problem. Thanks for the help Karl! 🙂
1998 Toyota Camry Radiator Cooling Fan One Works All the Time
Source: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/forums/topic/95-camry-cooling-fans-always-on/
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